768 Tinonee Road, Tinonee, NSW AUSTRALIA 2430
Phone/Fax: (02) 6553 1012           email: orchids@tinoneeorchids.com

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CYMBIDIUM CULTURE

Cymbidiums are what most people first think of as orchids. This genus is easy to grow and very popular in cooler, temperate climates of New South Wales and the southern states.

Shade is necessary from hot sun. A shade or bush house covered with 50% shade is ideal. Alternatively, dappled shade from a tree or other plants will suffice. Cymbidiums need plenty of filtered sun to flower well. These orchids will grow well, but rarely flower in full shade. If you don’t have a greenhouse, it may be necessary to move the pot from more sun in Winter to a shadier spot in Summer. If you wish to plant cymbidiums in a garden, provide dappled shade or an easterly aspect. Never cover the roots with heavy soil or clay, rather place the plant on top of the soil and mound around it with cymbidium compost.

Temperature. Happy to grow in a wide range of temperatures, cymbidiums will tolerate light frost as long as buds are protected. At the other end of the scale, very hot days are tolerated but plants will benefit from a substantial overnight drop in temperature. This drop in temperature will help initiate flower stems.

Watering. Cymbidiums like to stay damp but not wet. To achieve this plants may need to be watered daily during hot, dry weather. Watering in the late afternoon/ evening will also help chill the plants. In winter, watering weekly should suffice.

Compost needs to be well aerated and free draining, but still remain damp for a reasonable period. Most cymbidium compost available from specialist nurseries is ideal, beware of generic brands from supermarkets. These are often of inferior quality. Graded and washed Coconut Husk Chip, such as OrchidMate is a popular media amongst orchid growers. OrchidMate is prewashed and graded; just soak for a few hours & it is ready to use. Treated pine bark or a perlite based mix is also popular.

Repotting. Cymbidiums are best repotted during the cooler months, or if they are flowering, as soon as possible after flowering. To avoid stress to the plants, do not repot during summer. If dividing plants, make sure at least  3-4 bulbs are left together. Never reuse compost, and sterilise tools and preused pots with bleach or a sugar soap concentrate. After dividing, place plants in a shady area for a few weeks and water sparingly.

Fertiliser. Most effective is water soluble fertiliser. Use a formula recommended for flowering plants. This can be applied every watering at quarter strength or at recommended strength every third watering. A little slow release fertiliser is OK, but must be buried in the pot.

 

AUSTRALIAN NATIVE ORCHID CULTURE
DENDROBIUM AND SARCOCHILUS

The popularity of Australian Native Orchids has grown dramatically in recent years. New cultivars have provided growers with a broader range of colours and styles that are easy to grow and flower.

Environment. Found growing wild in most areas on the east coast of Australia it is easy to provide suitable conditions in this area. Dendrobiums prefer bright filtered light, 50%- 70% shadecloth is ideal, or a tree or similar screen allowing dappled sunlight is perfect. Sarcochilus are usually found in heavier shade areas, about 90% shade and somewhat higher humidity than dendrobiums is beneficial.

Temperature. New South Wales coastal temperatures are OK, good air movement is important, especially during very hot or cold periods so natural air flow should not be impeded. Sarcochilus enjoy temperatures up to 30 degrees, over this try to minimise maximum temperatures, by providing more shade or air movement.

Watering. Perfect drainage is very important, many Australian Native Orchids grow on trees and dry off quickly after rain. Water thoroughly then allow plants to dry out completely before rewatering. Water regularly in summer, sparingly in winter. If you receive regular winter rain, a solid roof over plants may be necessary to control watering in cold weather.

Compost must be free draining. OrchidMate Coconut Husk Chips or treated pine bark is ideal. Some growers like to add 10% coarse perlite, gravel or styrene to the mix. As a guide, use medium chips in 100mm pots, large chips in 150mm pots & extra large chips in 200mmm pots or bigger. If established in the garden, a gravel bed under the plant will help with drainage, or attach firmly to a tree or rock and tie a pad of coconut fibre or similar over the root mass.

Repotting. Dendrobiums are best done soon after flowering, at the beginning of the growing season. We leave Sarcochilus till March/April after the worst of the hot weather has past. Sarc’s grow all year, but experience most growth in this area during Autumn/Winter.  Ensure pots have adequate drainage and are just big enough to contain the root system of the plant to be potted.

Fertilise regularly, especially during the growing season, using a soluble fertiliser for flowering plants, low in nitrogen and high in potassium. Plants will benefit from an occasional dusting with Dolomite.

Pests & Disease. Generally hardy and resilient, Australian Native Dendrobiums and Sarcochilus can sometimes be attacked by scale, aphid or spidermite. Treat with a recommended insecticide such as Rogor or Pest Oil. Fungal infections are rare provided good air movement is maintained during wet weather. Use Mannose or lime water for leaf infections & Yates Anti Rot will prevent bulb rot. Dendrobium beetle can be a problem during the warmer months. Beetles are easily caught or spraying with Carbaryl is very effective.

PHALAENOPSIS CULTURE

Phalaenopsis are a group of plants that grow in shady, humid conditions throughout the Asian tropics and extend into northern Australia. They are arguably the most popular group of orchids grown in the world today, being particularly popular throughout the United States and Europe where they are regarded as one of the easiest orchids to grow indoors.

Temperature & Atmosphere Requirements. Phalaenopsis enjoy relatively stable temperatures. A minimum temperature of 15 degrees celsius and a maximum of 30 degrees is optimal, however plants will tolerate temps of up to 5 degrees more extreme than this for short periods. Growing these plants outdoors in New South Wales will require some artificial heating in the winter and cooling in the summer. However their requirements fall almost perfectly within the comfort zone we enjoy inside the house. Phalaenopsis also require medium to high humidity. This can be achieved by placing the plants on a saucer of gravel, wet the gravel but be sure the base of the pot is above the water level. As the water evaporates, adequate humidity will be provided. Alternatively, mist the plants daily.

Light. Phalaenopsis enjoy low light and must be protected from direct, unfiltered sunlight. Outdoors sufficient shade so that on a sunny day a barely discernable shadow is cast is ideal. Indoors a brightly lit room out of direct sun is suitable. 

Watering & Fertilising. One of the secrets of growing Phallies is to keep the roots just damp but the leaves as dry as possible. This means that the compost should be allowed to nearly dry out before watering. After watering dry the leaves off as quickly as possible, especially any water laying in the crown of the plant where the leaves join. To help this avoid watering the leaves, or place the plants in a breezy spot for an hour or two after watering, even removing excess water from the leaves with a tissue will serve the purpose.

Fertilise with a recommended soluble orchid fertiliser at quarter strength every watering or at half strength every second watering. A complete fertiliser low in nitrogen is ideal, use this formula all year round.

Potting, Pests & Diseases. Keep plants in as small a pot as possible, a few roots growing out of the pot will not harm the plant and is not necessarily a reason to pot up the plant. Use a course, free draining mix. Some growers prefer sphagnum moss, use long strand grade and replace annually. Apart from crown rot which can be avoided by careful watering, Phalaenopsis can suffer attack from Mealy Bugs. These appear as small furry white pests, usually under the leaves. They can be sprayed with Pyrethrum or a chemical insecticide, Pest Oil or wet them with equal parts of Metholated spirits and water using a cotton bud or small cloth.

Phalaenopsis are very rewarding plants to grow and flowers last up to 12 weeks. When flowers have withered, cut the flower stem off between the third and fourth notch from the base. The old stem will then shoot and flower a second time. Mature plants will flower twice each year so flowering can be achieved for up to half the year. Flowers are available in white, pink or yellow or with variations of spotting or veining on these backgrounds.

CATTLEYA CULTURE

Pronounced KAT-lee-uh, this group of orchids originate from a large area of tropical and sub-tropical America. They occur in many sizes, shapes and colours but are best known for their large flamboyant bloom. Most grow as epiphytes, or air plants. They have large pseudobulbs used to store water and have thick, fleshy roots that have the ability to collect moisture from the air.

Light is important for good flowering. About 50% is optimal, however if leaves overheat in summer this may need to be increased to 70%. Leaves should be medium green colour and pseudobulbs rigid and erect without staking. Excessive shading will reduce flowering dramatically and lead to soft, floppy growths.

Temperature should range between a minimum of 5-7 degrees in winter to a maximum of about 30-35 degrees in summer. I suggest you avoid watering if the temperature falls below 10 degrees. Small plants need to be protected from temperature extremes. High day temperatures, up to 35 degrees can be tolerated if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.

Water can be provided in two ways, in the pot by watering and in the air by humidity. For a plant growing in good open media, watering twice each week in Summer and once a week in winter is sufficient. In summer avoid watering during the heat of the day, in Winter only water on a bright sunny morning. The root system on these plants can easily be damaged by excess water. If in doubt, defer watering.

Humidity is important to Cattleyas as roots prefer to grow in humid air rather than to be wet. Humidity needs to range from 50% to 80%, about 60% is ideal. In Winter watering can be delayed by wetting the greenhouse floor and circulating air around the plants. This technique can also help to cool the plants in Summer. If you live in a Southern Winter rainfall  area, it may be necessary to grow your cattleyas under a solid cover so watering can be controlled during Winter.

Fertilise with a complete balanced NPK fertiliser for flowering plants. Apply fertiliser with the water every second watering.

Pots & Medium. Pots should be shallow, ie no deeper than they are wide and should have plenty of holes to allow perfect drainage. Media needs to be coarse and long lasting. OrchidMate Coconut Husk Chips is ideal. Treated pine bark is also popular. As a guide, use medium grade (10mm) in 100mm pots, large grade (15mm) in 150mm pots & extra large grade (20mm) in 200mmm pots or larger.

Pests & Disease. Cattleyas, apart from root rot caused by overwatering, can be attacked by pests such as scale and mealy bug. Check under dead bracks on old bulbs for hidden scale. This is easily controlled by Rogor or Pest Oil. Slugs and snails love fresh root tips, as do cockroaches, so check for these pests if root tips are being damaged. Hanging plants or growing on mesh benches can help, but snail bait may be necessary.

 

SOFTCANE (NOBILE TYPE) DENDROBIUMS

Softcane, or Nobile type Dendrobiums grow naturally in Northern India & Thailand at elevations up to 1500 metres in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains.

Temperature These species and their hybrids are hardy plants that will tolerate temperatures from 3 degrees centigrade to temperatures in the high thirties. They are easy plants to grow providing some basic rules are followed.

Watering & Fertilising. To grow softcane dendrobiums well, different seasonal treatment is required. After flowering in October increase watering & gradually increase fertiliser. Soluble ‘flower-booster’ fertiliser at recommended strength is preferred. By November when growths are 100mm or more high, water plants every second day and include fertiliser at least once per week. Maintain this treatment until new growths are nearly mature, say February or March. Reduce water & fertiliser so that by April, plants are receiving no nitrogen fertiliser at all. Water sparingly, just enough to prevent bulbs from shrivelling, until plants flower in Spring.

Compost. Plants should be grown in a well drained medium. Pots should be as small as possible and avoid over potting. Repot soon after flowering and before new growth starts to develop roots. Cover the plants with 30-50% shade in Summer to prevent burn to new growths, however, flowering will be enhanced if plants are given full or near full sun during Winter.

Softcane dendrobiums are easy orchids to grow provided they are given plenty of water & fertiliser in Summer, with no nitrogen fertiliser, little water & plenty of light during Winter.

 

PAPHIOPEDILUM (SLIPPER ORCHIDS) CULTURE

Paphiopedilums, more commonly known as Slipper Orchids, are shade loving plants from areas throughout Asia where they usually grow amongst rocks, moss and leaf litter in damp but well drained positions. Blooms are long lasting and are available in a range of colours. There are three main styles of flowers, popular amongst growers. These are the complex hybrids which have large round flowers with broad segments and bloom during the winter. The second group are the maudiae types which have attractive tessilated leaves and smaller flowers. The third group are the multiflorals, sometimes with 4 or 5 flowers on a stem. They have long strap like green leaves and are the slowest to grow.

Temperature & Light. Protection from frosts is necessary, especially for the maudiae and multifloral types, otherwise slippers are tolerant of a broad range of temperatures. Slippers thrive in conditions soft ferns such as maidenhair enjoy. The multiflora group with enjoy a little brighter light than the other two groups.

Watering & Fertilising. Watering should be sufficient to keep the root system just damp.  It is important to avoid over watering even short dry periods are OK.  The root system on Paphs can be easily damaged if the potting medium is old or the plants are overwatered. As a guide, water twice a week in Summer and once a week in Winter, depending on the weather of course. It is best to water during the morning in Winter and evenings during Summer. Try to avoid water laying on the leaves for lengthy periods. Include a balanced (flowering formula) fertiliser into the water at half the recommended strength, every second watering. A dusting of Dolomite occasionally will add calcium and help keep the media sweet.

Potting. A standard pot just big enough to contain the root system is adequate. Use a mix of large grade OrchidMate Coconut Husk Chips or pine bark with added perlite, styrene or charcoal. Media must be coarse enough to allow good drainage but still remain damp for a few days. As a guide, in a 150mm pot use 10-15mm bark.

Pests & Disease. Slippers appear resistant to orchid virus. Fungus can develop on the leaves or in the leaf axils, usually due to overwatering. Mealy bug can sometimes attack leaves and roots but is easily controlled with Rogor or similar. These plants are relatively pest free.

Paphiopedilums are attractive plants with curious and long lasting flowers. They are very rewarding to grow in a shady, moist environment.

 

COELOGYNE CULTURE

Coelogyne is a large diverse group of about 200 orchids of Asian origin. Most of the members of this showy genus of epiphytes and lithophytes have white or green flowers, with contrasting labellums displaying many brown markings.

Coelogynes are generally plants from mountainous regions and about 80 percent of the species are suitable for cultivating in cool to intermediate conditions. However there are also species from the monsoonal, tropical lowlands which are generally very easy to grow and will rapidly build into specimen plants if the conditions are favourable.

Most species are grown in pots with a bark-based mix, however those with pendulous flower spikes, or rampant growers with long rhizomes, are best accommodated in baskets. As a bonus, several species have pleasantly fragrant blooms.

They appreciate being watered once a week during the cooler months, up to every two or three days during warm weather. Best species for beginners include C. fimbriata, C. ovalis, C. flaccida, C. cristata, C. tomentosa (syn C. massangeana) and C. lactea.Some of the best hybrids include C. Jannine Banks (flaccida x mooreana), C. Linda Buckley (mooreana x cristata) and C. Unchained Melody (cristata x flaccida).

 

ONCIDIUM CULTURE

This diverse group originate in South America. Some species are tropical, but most prefer sub-tropical or temperate climates. These epiphytic orchids need perfect drainage, so a pot with free drainage mix or a mount such as tree fern slabs or cork bark is ideal.

Medium to heavy shade is preferred, many of the softer leaf varieties are susceptible to leaf spotting if given too much light. Include a soluble fertiliser, recommended for flowering plants, with every second or third watering all year round. Water regularly whilst growth is active, then water sparingly after growth has matured.

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